London, Paris, Milan, New York, Tokyo – these are the cities most people associate with high-end fashion and glamour. But in recent years, one unlikely city (and country) has been gaining a reputation as the next fashion capital of the world: Moscow.
Though most people might only associate Russian fashion with fur coats and all kinds of winter wear, Russia’s designers have begun making their mark in the streetwear game. They’re living up to the likes of those in Tokyo, the US, and the UK with labels like Bat Norton, Outlaw Moscow, Turbo Yulia, Sputnik 1985, and Fusion.
Come October, the much-awaited Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week should draw more eyes from around the world, and we know we’ll be watching too. But before that hits, let’s get you acquainted with fashion from Russia, from its history and its most famous designers to today’s trends.
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A Brief History Of Russian Fashion
The evolution of Russian fashion in modern history has been very interesting considering how the socialist ideology of the Soviet Union heavily influenced how fashion was perceived, advertised, consumed, and distributed. For the most part, socialism rejected most of the capitalistic ideals of individualism and an emphasis on wealth and beauty, so Russian fashion was stifled in the Soviet-era
Early Soviet Years To The ‘60s
As the Soviet Union fell under different leaders, policies and attitudes on fashion would change every couple of decades. For example, while the Bolsheviks of the 1920s discouraged any interest in fashion, the Lenin era was more open to it, albeit in a bid to promote the idea that Soviet Russia wasn’t a cold and dreary place to live.
During this time, women would show up to their factory jobs in fine clothing despite the fact that many could not afford such expensive pieces.
During the ‘50s and ‘60s, Moscow’s street fashion would match that of the West’s, yet the state would emphasise the importance of modesty and moderation above all. An interesting trend among Russian youths was the “stilyagi” or style hunters, or those who would mirror the looks they saw portrayed in American media. They’d wear miniskirts, Hawaiian shirts, sunglasses, and pointed shoes.
The ‘70s To The ‘90s
During the Soviet Space Age, “Space Fashion” became a big hit. It also helped that the trend boosted the popularity of the State’s focus on science and technology.
Russian fashion trends veered away from the traditional and conservative state-approved looks even more during the perestroika period of the ‘80, when more fashion magazines cropped up.
When the USSR collapsed in 1991, there was a sudden surge of Western, particularly American, clothing, like acid wash denim, leather jackets, and neon-coloured pieces, as well as ‘90s skate culture-inspired fashion.
The neo-punk movement also saw an ‘ironic’ way of doing ‘Soviet fashion’, such as Olga Soldatova’s collection that was peppered with sparkly red stars, and the USSR-stamped shirts of Denis Simachev which were popular in the 2000s.
What Does Fashion From Russia Look Like Now?
Today, the phrase “Post-Soviet” fashion encapsulates the DIY-driven, technology-influenced, and independent and opinionated aesthetic of modern Russian fashion.
Russian fashion trends of today have been described by designer Alisa Kuzembaeva as having a “very young energy”. Culture Trip calls Russian style “vibrant, contemporary, and completely unique”. Meanwhile, in a L’Officiel story, several Russian designers have described Moscow style as “decisively decorative” and “brave”.
The Biggest Russian Fashion Brands Of Today
Aside from the five streetwear brands we listed above, here are some more of today’s best and most well-loved Russian fashion brands:
- Volchok
- ZDDZ
- Novaya
- Goldmans
- A Shade More
- TM
- Rassvet
- Walk Of Shame
Russian Fashion Designers You Should Know About
Gosha Rubchinskiy
Rubchinskiy is a huge name in Russian fashion. Style-wise, he draws heavily from the fall of the Iron Curtain, and has actually influenced other major brands and designers with his Post-Soviet aesthetics. He merges past and present Russian iconography, with his early looks playing on the aesthetics of youth countercultures like ‘80s punk and ‘90s skate scenes.
Nina Donis
Nina Donis is actually a brand by avant-garde pioneers Nina Neretina and Donis Pupis. The duo are regarded as two of the most influential Russian fashion designers for their way with fusing different and seemingly incongruent styles together in their collections.
They’re said to look at Russian motifs like traditional Russian clothing, royal garb, and Olympic uniforms as inspiration.
Lotta Volkova
Highsnobiety called Lotta Volkova the “secret genius behind the Ex-Soviet Fashion explosion”. As the in-house stylist of Vetements, she’s also one of the people responsible for the rise of the French design collective.
Volkova is also noted as one of the key people responsible for the new vision at Balenciaga.
Vika Gazinskaya
Vika Gazinskaya is a Moscow-born designer who worked as the fashion editor for L’Officiel Russia. She launched her label in 2007, and quickly gained popularity for her “sculptural silhouettes” and “sophisticated yet quirky” aesthetic.
Ulyana Sergeenko
Sergeenko is a Kazakhstan-born designer who is known to put quite a spin on her designs with her traditional-meets-modern aesthetic. She mixes traditional Russian fashion and style from the streets, and is known to draw inspiration from her grandmother’s sense of style.
Lesia Paramonova
Leisa Paramonova of LES creates whimsical designs fit for a fairy, with pieces characterised by floral prints and flowy, transparent fabrics. Ethereal is the word that comes to mind when taking a look at her designs. The designer says she draws inspiration from “plants, animals, forest, dreams, movies, music and great people.”
Olga Vilshenko
Olga Vilshenko’s aesthetic can be described as Eastern European folklore-meets-Western American style. She incorporates a lot of folkloric embroidery in her designs, which gives her work a kind of traditional, peasant-woman look. The pieces are never dated though, as she uses modern and vibrant colours to create some truly iconic looks.
Conclusion
Russia fashion may have gone through a rough patch in the early 20th century, but post-Soviet fashion is climbing to greater heights and making a ton of waves both off and online. Today Russia is one of the most vibrant and avant-garde fashion scenes in the world, so maybe it’s time to check out some Russian designers for your daily fashion fix!
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