The Canadian Rockies in winter … all about skiing, right? Sure, if you’re into winter sports it’s got some of the best snow and slopes in the world.
But if you’re like me, action sports require a level of adventure and daring that don’t come naturally.
Luckily, there’s so much more to this unbelievably beautiful spot.
Beginning the trip in Banff
We began our trip in Banff, a total winter wonderland. A comfortable two-hour bus ride from Calgary Airport (we flew from Sydney via Vancouver), it’s a quaint town nestled in a UNESCO World Heritage Site full of incredible ski resorts and restaurants – and home to just 10,000 people.
Our first day kicked off with snowshoeing in the Sunshine Village ski fields. A free shuttle downtown runs to and from the resort.
What’s snowshoeing, you ask? Think hiking, but in the snow, with ski poles and specially fitted shoes that look like mini snowboards for ploughing through the mountainous terrain.
It’s fun, easy to get the hang of and safe at any age.
Our guide Brian was super informative, teaching us all about spotting the right trails, identifying the local vegetation and the history of the stunning land. He also came with a supply of maple cookies and hot chocolate!
After working up an appetite, it was off to dinner at Bluebird.
Set inside a cosy log cabin with a roaring fire and great service, it’s topped off by some of the best steak I’ve ever eaten.
The next morning starts with brekkie at Wild Flour in town, where the coffee pleases even us fussy Aussies, followed by a spot of window shopping.
My must-visits? The Rocky Mountain Flannel Company for pyjamas and Jolene’s Tea House for their famous creamy Earl Grey.
Then it’s onto another bus – this time headed for Lake Louise – just over an hour out of Banff.
Arriving in Lake Louise
Pulling up to the Fairmont Chateau, Lake Louise is like something out of a fairytale.
Overnight guests are treated like kings and queens in this five-star winter paradise, but if you want to save on cash, take a shuttle out for the day like we did.
From sleigh rides around the lake to ice skating on it (it’s frozen over in winter), there’s plenty to keep you entertained.
The highlight? Afternoon tea! A generous feast of sandwiches, sweets, scones and of course, champagne, all while watching people skate, and tumble, around the lake.
A quick soak in the (very) heated outdoor pools back at the Moxy and I’m definitely ready for bed.
Finishing our trip in Jasper
I must admit I wasn’t nearly as informed as I should have been about the devastating wildfires that ripped through the resort town of Jasper (our next destination) in July last year.
It caused a mass evacuation and left behind a trail of destruction that’ll be felt for over a century as the once-luscious forest slowly heals.
It’s obvious just how heartbreaking the event was (and still is) for the locals.
Our snowshoeing guide Paula, who took us on a private tour of a stunning frozen lake, lost everything in the tragedy – still living with friends at the time of our visit.
Meanwhile, the waiter at incredible local whiskey bar – The Maligne Range – explains that the venue was due to open the week the fires hit and was subsequently delayed.
(Side note: this place has the best comfort food in the area. The beetroot Wellington? To die for! And don’t get me started on the sticky date pudding.)
The one thing that’s clear about the people of Jasper is that they adore their town – the scenery, the wildlife they take pride in protecting – and desperately want people to come back.
Four and a half hours from Banff by bus, it’s a nature-lover’s paradise, even after the fires, and a town with heart like no other.
